Wari La

From Stakna we crossed the Indus back to the other side to join at the Leh-Manali road and headed towards Thaktok Gompa, the farthest one.

We faced our third greatest dilemma after the Penzi La and the Chang La when we reached the Wari La signboard…..the same three-way point we stopped at while attempting Chang La (Mentioned in the “On the Pangong Trail” section). We were again standing on the same point but this time it looked more a Wari La roadhead than the Pangong trail! The thought that was repeatedly poking my ego was a rather simple. “Look Paraj! Here stands a pass which is less known and reportedly not attempted by any bulleteer so far!”. “But we are targeting Thaktok monastery as per the plan for the day and let me not digress from it”, I told myself very strongly. After two kilometers of a zig-zag road, a milestone informed that Wari La is 19 kilometers ahead. Now I couldn’t control myself and proposed the ride to the W-top to Manish. Manish agreed to my coercion but he had his reservations, I knew. Perhaps, he spared me for another spoilt adamant egoist, I guess! Finding weather on a rather brighter side we rode past the Thaktok Monastery in order to scale Wari La before the heavens think otherwise. Anyway, they can stop us any moment as means is not a big issue with them. But we took the plunge with the prayer on our lips. That’s all I remember now and perhaps that’s all mattered, I guess, in the last.

Initially a steady ascent ensued with lots of twists & turns. It is actually a single mountain climb and road never veers off from that mountain. Hares hopped for the shade as the bullet roared past their dwellings. Ascent becoming steep, I had to put in a lot of effort to balance the bike on hairpin bends. Hairpin bends….well! There are just too many of them on this route. Gradually, we reached the snowline. Snow cover was very thick and it was impossible to proceed further. But thanks to the trucks that lead us and cut the snow for us. An added difficulty was melting of snow which made the road all the more slippery. If snow spared, water got into action. Ultimately, we were just 200 meters short of the summit when ascent got very steep. Snow cover was even thicker. Therefore, I was finding it difficult to balance the bike on even the cut snow. So we had our customary ‘tilt’. Well! Since the carriers were there on the bike so it only tilted. You can call it a fall ;~)

I requested Manish to walk up that steep snow laden stretch for the sake of both of us. Manish hated me all the more but we did not have any option there. I knew I will fall as road grip was entirely missing and bike was slipping on the slope. A very scary moment indeed. My shoes were immersed in the snow and everything upto knee was white. Hands were numb due to the cold and I thought its better to take few breaths before finally attempting that stretch once again. I could see that Manish was already halfway. It proved futile to engage both the stands as the fluffy snow on a slope didn’t allow the bike to stand. I was in no mood to clear the snow to make space for it. Finding no other option but to carry on, I took off the gloves and warmed my hands on the engine while still sitting astride on the bike. Finally, roared the engine back to life and twisted the accelerator for the final spin. The bike did clear from the slush area it was stuck into but was in a serious want of pulling power. I engaged my legs, not caring of the ill-effects like snowbite, etc. This provided that extra required push and stability to the bike and me. Building on the accelerated pace I rode past Manish and reached the summit! Manish was almost there and I walked down a few steps down on the snow to receive him. He was breathing very heavily and was in no mood for any celebration. But when he turned his face to see how much we covered up, what height we were at and of course the sparkling snow-laden landscape lying before us, he forgot his fatigue and became breathless in the other sense.

We were at the Wari La top, a pass which was not only less known but un-reached as well. I was fit and elated and so much pleased with the bike’s performance but could see only a faint smile on Manish’s face. We knew our feat was commendable but we just exchanged a rather complacent look. There was absolutely nobody, not even a bird to chirp. On a corner lied a small temple sort of structure in the name of Wari La Baba. Weather did not give us much scope of exploring the other side of the pass and we were freezing already with wet shoes and lower limbs. The wisdom dawned on us and we decided to descend immediately after taking the customary pictures. Wari La top opened up a new vista, a new route, a new challenge and I think 60kph has another feather on its cap.

I am sure you must be wondering by now, why the hell this Wari La was made in the first place? Where does this route end? Keep wondering till I report to you in a sequel to this article.

Manish hopped on to the rear seat and we tracked the route back to Thak Tok Monastery. It has been constructed again at a new site nearby as the old structure, though more beautiful, was cramped. Old building is tucked under a rock shade, which is cave like and not very high from the road. Only a flight of few steps leads to the main hall. But we didn’t climb and had a good look from outside only. The prayer wheels around the monastery are particularly impressive. We clicked the picture but Manish forgot to focus it properly. It could have happened to anybody in that state of mind. We moved on to Chemrey Gompa which is another 10 kilometers ahead on the way back to Karu.

A 5 kilometer long bylane on the right side from the road leading to Karu took us to the river which we crossed on an old, narrow bridge. Then the road circled the monastery, on a steep ascent to a craggy hill off the mountain range, before landing us onto the monastery gate. Chemrey Gompa is the most beautiful of them all but that’s our personal view and you are not expected to concur. A priest showed us around each important section of the monastery and shared his ‘Gyan’ of Buddhism with us. Apart from viewing the big brass idol of Padmasambhava in Guru-La-Khang we visited Du-khang, Gon-khang and the main prayer hall. We liked its construction but water availability is a major issue here and is fetched from the river flowing down below by trucks at regular intervals. View from the Monastery is just fantastic and quite vast. One can’t have a complete view in one sweep and hence one need to turn around to soak in more and then little more.

Down deep below is field of chortens on the bank of the river. Evening was quite close now and we were still short of Thiksey Gompa and Shey palace. On our way back we did visit both of them but couldn’t do justice with either. Both are worth a visit for sure and Shey particularly commands more attention because of its ancient ruins and a 12 m high Sakyamuni Buddha statue which we couldn’t see in the dark of night. Although we could see clearly the huge golden-spired chorten against the backdrop of snowladen mountains on the other side of the Indus.

On our way back we took a halt at the BRO headquarters before Choglamsar village to confirm about the latest status of Leh-Manali highway. The guard said he has no latest information since it was closed due to heavy snowfall. This leaved with us no other option but to catch the only road left to the world we belonged to. Yes we were already feeling a little nostalgic by now and little out of place as well. We again checked up at the bus-stand if there is any Manali-bound bus. There actually were but each one of them was leaving for Drass to go via Pathankot, Palampur, and Mandi.

Our tour was coming to an end and we were back to Leh to rest for our last night of the trip. So much happened, so much visited and so much left, that’s what we discussed that night after our customary visit to Leh Bazaar! A unique experience it was and will remain with us forever. But future had little more in store for us as we were still to go all the way to Delhi.

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