Pavillion Calling

Next morning after packing our stuff we paid a quick visit to the other ancient stupa beside the hill of Shanti stupa. It is in ruins but still worth visiting. Restoration work is already on and if properly resurrected can become a busy tourist spot due to its proximity to the more visited Shanti Stupa. Spitok Gompa (Some people call it ‘Spituk’, but they are the same) was next on our hit list so we loaded the bike, bade a very good bye to our hosts at Leh and started the return journey.

The approach road to Spitok rises from the Leh-Srinagar highway just after the southern end of the Leh airport boundary. Although much of the southern flank of the Gompa was under renovation work, we had great views of the side valleys, uneven agricultural fields and the Indus. I was a bit perplexed to see a Hindu lady walking up all the way to Gonkhang on the top of the hill and praying there. Later I found out by reading in a travel guide that much to the dislike of the resident lamas, Hindus worship the fearsome deities as goddess Kali. However, the idols of the deities are revealed only once in a year that is during the annual festival of the monastery.

Descending back on the highway we came across the diversion for the Phyang Monastery. The setup is visible from the highway but I wanted to atleast have a look around so that next time we visit we know where is what. But Manish was bored to the hilt of all the monastery stuff. I bowed down and next we halted at the Zanskar – Indus confluence point just before the Nimmu village. It’s a remarkable sight even though the flow of both the rivers gave a tamed look due to the winters setting in.

Then we took some photographs at Basgo ruins few kilometers ahead before proceeding to the tiny village of Saspul. Just beyond this village is the bridge which took us to the picturesque village of Alchi. The 11th century Alchi monastery is no more an active Buddhist site but the location is spectacular and villagers are very friendly. Alchi Gompa had the most elaborate structure with several sites of interest to watch out for, particularly, the DuKhang (prayer room), Sumtsek (three-storey temple) and few other small temples. The view of the mountain ranges grouped with the river and small agricultural fields provides a calm and serene haven to a weary traveler. I left Manish photographing the site and proceeded to explore a little beyond Alchi but then road just went on and on so decided otherwise. Here the ‘tilt’ happened again while I was trying to turn the bike on a narrow track. This time it took all the effort in the world to straighten it up as it was overloaded with the luggage plus it’s own weight! It took me almost five minutes just to be back on the bike and that too at a loss of few ounces of fuel. Meanwhile, Manish was through with the photography and was tracking me.

Before reaching Khaltse we rode past to the turns for Rhizdong and Temisgam Monasteries but I couldn’t muster enough courage to make a mention before Manish!

We crossed and took few pictures of Lamayuru Gompa, Fotu La pass and Budh Kharbu village and something worth narrating happened after we were descending from Namika La. I was riding rather hurriedly and was taking the trucks for granted. Now this truck which was climbing up the pass met us at a hair-pin bend at the furrow in the hill. The driver was a newbie and did not give us enough space to pass the bend and on our left was a deep gorge. I braked hard but the downhill acceleration and lack of space to even stand still made it hard to stop the bike. Finally it became so narrow that the truck hit the carrier hard enough to throw us off the bike into the gorge. Well! I tried my best to cling to the bike but then impact was so much that I found myself shocked and furious lying down 15 feet below in the gorge after. Manish also couldn’t balance I guess and came down tumbling over me. But he was very much in his senses. He repeatedly kept asking, “Paraj! Paraj! Too’ theek hai?”. I gestured him to shut-up till I gain back my sense. The culprit and the trucks trailing him all stopped and reached down in the gorge. The leader of that truck convoy kept requesting not to report the incident to the BRO. The culprit declared his newbie status without delay and repeatedly asked for an excuse. “Pehley mujhey uthao to saheee?”, I said angrily. I landed on my ass and it was paining like anything. Leg partition was affected as I could hardly walk. I couldn’t control myself and severely reprimanded the driver for not providing enough space to the fellow travelers. The Bungee came off but I stitched it back with a knot. I told Manish to hold the bike while I try to sit astride. Luckily the pelvic movements were just strained hard but not sealed. My heart was beating hard though and body was still to recover from shocked state. Few military trucks passed by, meanwhile, I tried to reclaim my senses. It seemed like my body was planning a revolt. But I could sit and both ankles were functional. So, I asked Manish to process the Kick and off we were for Kargil. No use describing to you the pain of riding on a Ladakh road with a busted ass. We refilled the tank to the brim at Kargil pump and reached Drass in the evening at 8 pm. I was shivering so asked Manish to help me get off the bike and then go and search for the watchman of the PWD rest house.

It was 9:30 pm when we fell asleep to wake up to a biggest challenge of the trip – Doing Zoji La at 6:00 am, in mid October and with a busted ass. Well! Let me fast forward you to Pathankot as I don’t want to remember all that again and from Sonmarg to Pathankot the ride was plainly drab. At Pathankot, we called up our respective homes and I called up 60kph to inform about our wellbeing.

Next day we belted back home and the unavoidable or rather desirable end came to our sojourn.
One final observation: If you yearn to take a bath…..in Ladakh……in winters? I must say….not a peril at all. Try it! But please beware, nobody should be watching you.

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