Incredible India


I am short of words for what I saw as soon as I stepped out of the room early morning next day. The panorama of snow peaks looked awesome in the golden light of the first rays of the Sun. Himalayas in all their splendour were before my eyes. I felt like I was viewing a series of meditating gods. The snow-bound peaks were awe-inspiring and at the same time serene and calm. Such is the charisma of Himalayas. Some of the peaks I could recognize were Kedarnath, Chaukhamba, Kamet, and Trishul. Witnessing the drama of light and shades on the panorama of snow peaks and intervening ranges as the scene changed with every blink of an eye was a wonderful and rewarding experience for me and worth all the effort to be there. Feeling slightly invigorated, I inhaled in fresh mountain air and trekked a few steps towards Chandrashila peak. The Chandrashila summit is about 3930 m high and visible from the way to the shrine itself. But despite its visibility, it is not nearer than a climb of another kilometre from the temple compound and that too at a steep gradient. Chandrashila literally and mythologically translates to the Mountain of Moon. It is said that the Moon spent many years here in penance and hence the mountain was named after him. The People, who trek to the top, build small temples from the stones for good luck. Quite a number of people were enjoying at the top while others were halfway through the trek to Chandrashila summit. “I am not going to attempt the top”, I advised myself. “After all, today I should be left with some energy to get Reyvika and myself down in one piece”. So far so good. Quite unwillingly, I repressed myself against the tempting revelry of Summit seekers and descended back to the hotel. It is important to mention that there are very few and very basic accommodation options and other facilities. But then, there is no mode to book in advance. So while ascending, keep praying to Lord Tungnath or carry your own tent!

HIGHEST TEMPLE IN THE WORLD
Vandana and Reyvika were also awake and we freshened up and paid a visit to the temple together. The temple is situated on a tiny plateau below the Chandrashila peak. Mystery shrouds the origin of the temple and there are several mythological tales behind it. Legend has it that the Pandava’s (Five Brothers) sought the penance by propitiating the Lord Shiva for they wanted to get rid of the charge of “Brahm-Hatya” (Murder) of their kith and kin. The Lord Shiva eluded them and finally seeing their resolve he acquired the form of a Bull. Subsequently, fearing identification by the capable “Pandavas”, he dived into the Earth. The Tungnath shrine is perceived to be the appearance of arms of the Bull Form of the Lord Shiva, whereas, hump, matted locks, face and navel appeared at the Kedarnath, Kalpeshwar, Rudranath and Madhyamaheshwar shrines, respectively. Panch Kedar is the group of all these five shrines together. Unlike the Kedarnath, the Tungnath temple is smaller (around 50 ft high) and dilapidated. Actually, we were forced to think of how is it standing on its own, enduring the vagaries of the nature at such an altitude!? Built with solid granite stones, it is a typical specimen of Hill architecture. The temple houses about a foot high left-tilting lingam rock, surrounded by several other idols in the precinct. An idol of Nandi guards the entrance. Since we were the only family there, it allowed us to offer our prayers to the deity for several unforced and unattended minutes. A pleasure, undoubtedly. The temple has several miniscule temples on its left. Another two temples in the compound are dedicated to goddess Parvati and the sage Ved Vyas. Apart from that there are a few sheds for the priests in the compound.

IN THE PIOUS AMBIENCE
We sat on the boundary wall facing the snow peaks and sort of meditated with our sights fixed on the panorama, while Reyvika ran from one place to the other, climbing on this and that, freeing herself a bit from yesterday’s punishment. A few students of a trekking group on their way to Gopeshwar climbed to a nearby cleft with some left-over snow and had a great fun making snow-men and throwing snow balls at each other. Reyvika watched them curiously and pointed her finger towards them every once in a while to redirect our attention. But we were more occupied with the views, discussing about what we missed yesternight when we had arrived in pitch dark. The experience would live with us for the life-period for it was here that our quests for spirituality and adventure converged and provided us a high in unison.

Return journey was uneventful except that I had a full one hour swim in the Ganges at ‘Marine Drive’ near Shivpuri.

Uttaranchal has pure nature unleashed, laid-back relaxed character and non-commercialized atmosphere. If you like driving/riding, the state is a veritable destination, but its real USP is its inhabitants, extremely courteous, generous and with unrivalled hospitality. Bird watcher’s just don’t miss out on any opportunity to be there. In fact, if you still have not spotted a beautiful creature, the great pied hornbill (Buceros bicornis) and like me if you also are putting up in the north, far from Western Ghats, then rush to the Uttaranchal before it gets extinct.

If you are looking towards the Uttaranchal during the “Yatra” season, be prepared to rub your shoulders with hordes of pilgrims or head to lesser and equally beautiful destinations like Panch Kedars.

Happy Trails,
Paraj Shukla

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